Tex-Mex

Can the NYT write with authority…and more important, credibility…on the subject of Tex-Mex food? That isn’t exactly a rhetorical question, given yesterday’s article titled “A Celebration of Tex-Mex, Without Apology.”

It is hard to pin down experts and restaurateurs as to what happened to Mexican food when it crossed the border. The best explanation is perhaps the most inelegant: it got cheesier, chili-er and meatier.

“Cal-Mex is long on burritos and sour cream,” Mr. Walsh said. “In New Mexico, it’s all about green chilies, and in Arizona they are proud to have invented chimichangas — deep-fried burritos. The embodiment of Tex-Mex is a cheese enchilada with gravy.”

While superior Tex-Mex food may be specific to Texas, it is hardly restricted to one region or city. In 10 years as a Texas resident, I learned that there is no such thing as a best Tex-Mex restaurant in any given city. Instead, there are favorites recommended by locals. This is because the restaurants are family run, and the true Tex-Mex aficionado is usually a good neighbor who supports more than one family.

Just a taste, Gentle Reader…just a taste. In the FWIW Dept., my answer to the question I posed is “yes.” Not a bad article, not bad at all. Your mileage most certainly may vary, but I found the article accurate and informative…beginning with the admission that Tex-Mex fundamentally doesn’t exist in NYC. True, dat. I know…I’ve looked.

And, yeah… we’re ALL about the chilies here in New Mexico… which is as it should be, given New Mexico is home to the world’s finest. But it really doesn’t matter if your favorite variation on the theme originates in Dallas, LA, or Albuquerque. It’s all good. That said: The First Mrs. Pennington makes the world’s best enchiladas, bar none. It’s a pity most of y’all haven’t tasted them.

Just sayin’.

(photo: NYT)